The Surface Preparation Standard

A paint job lasts as long as its preparation, not its paint. The finest coating in the world fails early over a surface that wasn't washed, wasn't de-chalked, or where bare or problem spots weren't primed. This is the work that happens before the first drop of color goes on your home — the part you pay for but never see — so we put it in writing for you here. It is also the prep that earns the 10-year warranty. Our approach is diagnostic first: we assess what each surface needs, then match the prep to what we find.

1 — Pressure Wash

Every exterior surface is pressure washed before any coating is applied. No exceptions. We do not paint over dirt, dust, chalk, cobwebs, or loose material — paint bonds to the surface, and the surface has to be clean for the bond to hold.

The standard:

• Minimum 2,500 PSI. Every wash is done at 2,500 PSI or greater, adjusted as appropriate for the substrate and its condition.
• All dirt, chalk, mildew, efflorescence, cobwebs, and loose or failing material is removed.
• Surfaces are allowed to dry fully before any coating is applied.
• We do not pressure wash drywall — including the exterior lids and covered-ceiling areas where it is commonly used on Arizona homes. Drywall is not built to take pressurized water; washing it that way damages it.
• We do not pressure wash at or near the electrical service disconnect.

2 — Chalk Assessment

In the Phoenix sun, almost every previously painted exterior has some chalking — a powdery residue left when UV breaks down the binder in old paint and releases loose pigment. The question is never whether a repaint surface has chalk; it's how much. The amount determines whether new paint will bond or fail early, so we assess it on every repaint and match the prep to the level we find.

How we test (the field method):

We rub a dark cloth (or fingertips) firmly across the surface and read how much powdery residue transfers. A dark cloth reads chalk better than a light one — the white residue shows against it. This is the field version of the recognized industry standard, ASTM D4214, which rates chalking on a 0–10 scale (10 = no chalk, 0 = heavy chalk). The more powder that transfers, the more prep the surface needs.

The three levels and what each one triggers:

Chalk-binding primer — the product we use:

On heavy-chalk surfaces we prime with Dunn-Edwards SURFACO® SELECT Chalk Binding Primer before any EVERSHIELD® topcoat. It is formulated specifically to lock down residual chalk so the finish coats bond to a sound surface instead of to loose powder.

We topcoat with Dunn-Edwards EVERSHIELD®, which is formulated to resist future chalking better than standard finishes. So the chalk we treat today is also less likely to return — the assessment, the prep, and the product all work toward the same result.

What you can verify: We note the chalk level we find on your home, and what it called for, so the assessment isn't something you have to take on faith. The prep you pay for is prep you can see in writing.

3 — Caulk

Caulk goes where a joint needs sealing — not down every line where wood meets stucco. The joints we seal before priming: around door trim, where a drywall ceiling meets wood trim or stucco, and fascia board joints that call for fill — caulk where caulk belongs, and a hard-setting filler (Rock Hard) where a fascia joint needs a harder repair than caulk can give. Rafter tails, eave junctions, and trim reveals are not caulked shut: those lines are built to sit against the wall, and sealing them buys nothing but a mess. Any additional joint your home specifically needs is named on your proposal. On a job we warrant for 10 years, the joints that need sealing get sealed — that part is not optional.

Caulk — the product we use:

Gaps and joints are sealed with DEC PLUS Siliconized Acrylic, a professional-grade paintable sealant. We never use 100% silicone on surfaces to be painted — paint will not adhere to it, so a silicone bead leaves a permanent unpainted line that collects dirt and fails early. The right sealant flexes with the joint as the house moves through Phoenix heat cycles, stays paintable so it disappears into the finish, and holds the seal for the life of the coating.

Note — windows are sealed differently, with a different product and an open sill for drainage. See the separate Window-to-Stucco Sealant Standard for the full procedure.

4 — Prime

Bare and problem surfaces are primed before the finish coats. Paint applied directly over bare substrate, heavy chalk, or a stain fails faster — the primer is what the finish coat actually bonds to.

Note — cracks, splits, and damaged substrate are assessed and repaired under a separate standard. See The Crack & Repair Standard for how we classify and repair each type before priming.

Where we prime:

• All bare or exposed substrate — stucco, wood, metal, fascia.
• Heavy-chalk surfaces — a chalk-binding primer before any topcoat.
• Repairs and patched areas before the finish coats.
• Stem walls, below-grade areas, and horizontal water-holding surfaces (parapet tops, equipment-wall tops, sill ledges).

Which primer, and where — we match the primer to the surface:

Using the wrong primer — or skipping it — is one of the most common reasons a paint job fails early. Matching the right primer to each surface is not extra work we add; it is the work that makes the finish last.

Why this is the foundation of our warranty: A coating can only be warranted for as long as what's underneath it holds. Every step on this page exists to make sure the surface under your paint is sound — because that is what lets us stand behind the work for 10 years. The prep isn't the part of the job you see, but it is the part that determines how long the part you do see will last.

Preparation is the part of the job you can't see — so we put it in writing.